下北沢で！ [福岡晃子]

たまたま通りすがったカフェで見つけてしまったよ。
もちろん、許可を得て撮影させていただきました！

ポカポカ開放的な場所に来ると、いつもこんなポーズになるらしい…。

おじさまとセットで超癒し系です。

あっこ
2008-08-07 17:17

At Shimokitazawa [Fukuoka Akiko]

I discovered this at a cafe I just happened to pass by.
Ofcourse, I got permission before taking the photo !

Apparently whenever he comes to a warm and cosy spot like this it`s always this pose...

As a set with the man, they`re a super healing type.

Akko
2008-08-07 17:17

As we entered the resoundingly minimal interior of Tibet Tibet, we couldn’t help but feel that the huge black Buddha in the back of the room was beckoning us to stop thinking about crowded trains and other stresses of city life. Situated on a small side street set apart from Shimokitazawa’s funky secondhand shops, this restaurant is the perfect spot for an eye-opening dinner.

We chose a seat on the soft white mats instead of the sofas, sauntered up to the low glass tables and, after glancing at our options, summoned the staff by ringing the worn metal bell (an electronic one would have seemed alarmingly out of place). Fruit-infused shochu arrived first: delicious concoctions of fresh fruit soaking in alcohol in glass jars prominently displayed as faux-art pieces on the wall behind the bar (¥500- ¥700). We recommend the blueberry, pomegranate and raspberry varieties on the rocks.

Every time we visit Tibet Tibet, we gain new appreciation for its inventive Southeast Asian dishes. A shining example is the harumaki spring roll loaded with shrimp, avocado, tomato, tobiko, yellowtail, green onion and carrot drizzled with a gingery ranch dressing (¥880). The presentation in thin rice paper is understated, yet the flavor is somehow both rich and light— and tremendously addictive.

While nibbling on potato-pork croquettes with wasabi mayonnaise (¥680) and an excellent, lightly fried corn and shrimp tempura with sprinkles of shiso (¥700), we got ready for the night’s feature presentation: the Himalayan Coconut Curry (¥900). Arriving in a big wooden bowl, the moat of thick curry hounded the plateau of sweet purple rice in the middle, which was like an eroding desert island guarded by stalks of fresh cilantro and warm avocado wedges. While we generally shy away from curries that aren’t loaded with chili, we can’t help but dish out spoonfuls of hyperbole when contemplating this dish’s brilliance, which lies far more in the balance and ratio of the fresh ingredients than any attempt at taste-bud mutilation.

On nights when the turntables in the corner are silent, Tibet Tibet plays an eclectic mix of Latin, African, Indian and Indonesian music, which leaves us questioning exactly why the restaurant is named after a country that’s barely represented on the menu. This mix of ethnicity was demonstrated yet again with a large urn full of tom yum kun, a mildly spicy, steaming and almost Vietnamese version of the popular Thai noodle dish, replete with green vegetables and crowded with soft tofu (¥880).

Tibet Tibet has found its identity by serving an unpretentious mélange of Southeast Asian cooking. The beautiful irony is that, in doing so, it has succeeded in creating a distinctive character while straddling the culinary borders that so often pigeonhole restaurants into serving popular but mediocre dishes. So take a moment. Forget what you think you know about fusion, and just savor, savor.

2F Nice Bldg, 5-29-9 Daizawa, Setagaya-ku.Tel: 03-5433-1565.

Open Sun-Fri 6pm-1am, Sat 2pm-1am. Nearest stn: Shimokitazawa, west exit. www.livemedia.co.jp/wwc/wwctop/yuutop/tibet/tibetindex.html

Saturday 8th : We wake up, but not so early as we are still feeling the head colds, and get ready to head out into the streets of Shimokitazawa with Little Brother for some hardcore shopping. We prepare ourselves for this with a coffee at the cafe just opposite some shops in the street that leads to the station. innocentgirl notices some colourful buckets in one of the shops and says that they look really cool ... next minute some passersby stop and assess the buckets, they buy one, no sooner has that person left than another does the same, and another... even Little brother is eager, he runs over and grabs the last purple one.... it's become a bucket frenzy! It would appear innocentgirl's powers of persuasion are quite strong today. If only she would use them for good and not consumer evil!

With coffees finished and buckets acquired it's time for shopping. Christmas presents, clothes and some seemingly 'useless' items are the order of the day. Big brother has asked for more t-shirts from a cool little shop called 'No more tears' so we spend endless hours messing up neatly folded shirts, buy some and head off for more shopping. Basically what Shimokitazawa doesn't have... isn't worth buying.
That night we head to Shibuya to the bar of a guy we met in the Yakitori place just opposite Little Brother's apartment... it turns out to be a huge restaurant and he's the chef! Even though the place is packed they find us seats and treat us like royalty. At the end of the night the chef takes us to the register, bows and says it's all on him!
We head back to Shimokitazawa on a train, packed with people, I am squashed in my bag and almost seperated from innocentgirl in crowd... just when you think no one else could fit in suddenly the doors open and more people cram in. innocentgirl tells me she always has the urge to start singing out loud just 'cause everyone is so quiet and trying to avoid looking at everyone else.
We have a couple of drinks at Little brother's favourite bar 'Ma and Ka's' and have some laughs with the bartender and the regulars that are frequently attached to the counter. Since I lost my shoes and I kinda look pathetic I have started asking for money... it's a new trick I learnt. Whenever I meet a new person I ask them for money and if they give me some (I have a little bag) then I give them a kiss. I really ham it up and the other night I earnt 726 yen! innocentgirl says she felt a little uneasy about the whole thing but I'm totally fine with it.
The funniest thing was one guy innocently mentioned that he wanted a kiss from innocentgirl instead.... so funny when Little Brother swung his head around, stared him in the eye and said "What!". Even funnier when he stood up, towering over him, and grabbed him by the collar... he he he... totally joking of course but the guy was really sweating bullets. Ha, ha Little brother is so funny!

Sunday 9th : We get up, drink coffee again and leave Little Brother at home cleaning while we head off to the Nurie Museum (a museum about colouring books!). It is hard to find and really tiny but there are lots of works on the walls and everyone is really friendly. The museum, although about colouring books in general, is dedicated to the works of Tsutaya Kiichi... innocentgirl has always loved his illustrations and was happy to see them up so close.

Then it's off to the Edo Tokyo Museum, which is right near where the sumo train, we got to stand next to two big guys on the train ride there.. innocentgirl was fascinated by their perfect hair juxtaposed against their totally mashed, cauliflower ears....at the musuem innocentgirl saw the works of Hokusai and some really cool artifacts from the Edo Period... I, however, was left in a coin locker....huff!

It was getting really late and innocentgirl remembered she still had to pick up her portfolio from the Chance 10 exhibition at Gallery Lele... we made it with 2 mins to spare. Heading back to the station we went to the little coffee van that sits opposite the station entrance... best coffee in Tokyo... seriously. We stand there in the cold warming our hands on the cup and sipping our latte when a girl, who is also sipping away, asks innocentgirl where she is from... thus begins a conversation. We find out she was a ballerina her whole life until she broke her back, since that time she has travelled and lived in Switzerland, now she is back in Tokyo but wants to live in London and teach Yoga, her mother runs a macrobiotic restuarant in Tokyo and that is her part time job. We both agree that Tokyo is wonderful but with all that there is happening, but often people work too hard and make very little time to meet new people.... so many people but so much loneliness.
When we get back to Shimokitazawa we have a soup curry with Little Brother and then head back for an early night.

BTW innocentgirl was recently on the Awagami blog, cool! .... byecha! See you in the Antipodes!

Ncha! Hi, Arare here in Japan.

Here is some of the stuff we have done so far and don't forget to check our flickr page too:

Wednesday 21st : arrived. Meet little brother and Tomo... ah, good to be in Tokyo again.

Thursday 22nd : Wandered the streets of Shimokitazawa getting lost and found and going in circles. Eat Mister Donut and buy knick knacks. Got ready at around 6pm and head into Daikanyama for the opening of Chance 10 Gallery Lele where innocentgirl's portfolio is on display.

Friday 23rd : Public holiday here in Japan so woke up late and wandered down the street for coffee with little brother. So funny when we took him to the station and there was the big brother waiting. Ha, ha, ha... surprises be of much goodness. Then it was all day shopping, eating Mister Donut, playing in game centre's and exploring Shimo again. Gyoza restuarant dinner, drinking at an Okinawan bar and late night karaoke. Got home around 3pm climbed into the futon and went straight to sleep.

Saturday 24th : Woke up early again and the apartment was getting real squashy with four people. It was like playing human tetris! Big brother came with us to Roppongi to visit the Mori Arts Center. The exhibition "Roppongi Crossing 2007: Future Beats in Japanese Contemporary Art" was pure brilliance... lots of fun interactive stuff! We even went in a wind tunnel that replicated what Hurricane Katrina might have been like. Then it was off to Kawasaki to meet a friend of younger brother who has a new baby... I wanted to take the baby home but they wouldn't let me... strange, ne? I was dragging my feet by this time.... so much walking and really cold as I was still wearing my summer yukata but then younger brother took us to an all night crepe place run by a really cute old lady with eyes that go in different directions. How clever!

Sunday 25th : The skylight above my futon is waking me up early every day and the novelty of this has begun to wear off now... but it's and up and getting ready for the 'freaks' (what big brother calls them) at Harajuku. He, he... I even got a photo with them. The best part of all was the trip to Kiddyland where innocentgirl bought me a winter coat... so cozy now and I even have ear muffs! We also checked out Design Festa gallery and saw live painting and drank a really yukky coffee.

Monday 26th : innocentgirl and big brother take me to Akihabara where they visit a maid cafe. 'They are such otaku sometimes!'. When I introduce myself to the maid's they go crazy with love for me... we got a picture taken and we learned how to speak otaku... 'moe, moe!' Then we spend the afternoon eating bento in Inokashira Koen in Kichijoji, so lovely. On the way back we visit Nakano Broadway... more otaku stuff, innocentgirl looks for more Arare goods but can't find any... 'I'm really rare!" We decide to head to Chiba to visit Jun at his bar, Jun can't believe its really me and has to pinch me to make sure... more surprises! We meet a real crazy plumber with a broken finger who keeps hugging big brother and looks drunk but he explains to us origin of otaku and for the first time I really understand it! We stay in a hotel... I am thankful our room doesn't have a skylight.

Tuesday 27th : Big brother shoots lots of video's in and around Chiba port... I don't exactly know what it's for but some kind of art project I suppose. innocentgirl and big brother talk alot about that kind of stuff. The train ride takes us past Tokyo Disneyland and back into Tokyo again. We head on in to see some exhibitions, the one in Daikanyama and another in Hatsudai at the ICC. This one is way cool!
Big brother is leaving tomorrow so he goes home to pack all his items while I head off to meet the Cotton's or Martine's bday party in Shinjuku. They all came as a surprise for Aunty Marty who turns 40 on Wednesday! Happy Birthday!
Meet big brother and little brother on the way back and have a drink at a bar called Ma and Ka's.... big brother is still packing when we get back, he's so funny how he's always crazy rushing. He has to take a train at 5am!

Wednesday 28th : Wake up really late... yay! Sleep is good. innocentgirl catches up on emails and stuff while I go done to get a bento and coffee for lunch. It's fun to just sit and listen to the Tokyo sounds outside, kids running home from school, neighbours talking and shop keepers spruiking. We have a nana nap together and then head on in to Shibuya for Tokyo Dr. Sketchy! Crazy fun but innocentgirl forgets I am in the bag and sits on my head while she draws.... I forgive her though when she tells me she won a prize for her sketch and my head doesn't hurt 'cause its made of plastic anyhow. Tokyomade goodies were being handed out and we meet Deanne who runs the site. Very cool goodies... check it out!

Anyway that's all for now... bye bye cha!

I live in Yoyogi, in a little parkside neighborhood that feels a bit like Europe. The reason it feels like Europe to me is that everything is small., and I guess Europe is the only place I have been--and obviously things are smaller there than in the U.S., where everything is huge. So basically, things are small. There is a woman who runs a lottery ticket (I think?) stand accross the street from me. The stand is the size of a closet with a teeny tiny window for customers. She just sits in there by herself all day. It seems like such a weird job. My apartment is small, but cute. I have a little balcony where I hang my laundry out to dry, and a little kitchen, and two plants and two chairs with two pillows. I have the apartment decorated nicely with some of my posters from school, and records on the shelves for some color. Things here are also very quiet. My first impression upon exiting the airplane was WHERE IS ALL THE NOISE?!?! It's bizarre to sit on a subway that is filled with people and sooo quiet. The other day, a girl on the subway accidentally swung her backpack around and hit her friend in the face (not hard enough to hurt or anything) and the two girls started cracking up---but at a volume level of 0. It was so bizarre. If they were Americans, they would have been screaming hysterically with laughter. Anyway, on the big street, (behind which lies my little street,) in Yoyogi is a really nice supermarket that is open late. (They have bagels--Tribeca brand! Also great fresh mozzerella and pre-made tofu dishes that are far, far better than any Japanese food I've ever eaten in the states.) There is also a 24 hour convenience store, a subway stop, a train line, little shops and restaurants, etc. If you follow the street up the hill, you reach a residential neighborhood and an elementary school with a playground. If you follow it the street as it winds around in the other direction, you reach my favorite place in Tokyo so far: Yoyogi Park!

Yoyogi Park is incredible! It is definitely NOT quiet. As soon as you walk in, you can hear the sounds of the African drumming circle that is there every day. Yoyogi Koen is not just a place to go jogging, or play soccer, badminton, baseball, ride a bike, etc. All of these activities do occur. But more interestingly, Yoyogi Koen seems to be the place where everyone goes to practice whatever art form they perform. On a typical sunny day this weekend, I saw, in between shady camphor trees, people playing the violin, saxaphone, guitar (acoustic and electric), melodica, drums, bass (acoustic and electric), various traditional Chinese and Japanese musical instruments, the birenbau (sp?), the harmonica, the ukelele (group lesson), the bagpipes, the digeridoo, etc. etc. etc. Significantly, the bagpipes and digeridoos each had their own clubs of about 10 members each. There are also teenage rock bands who perform a distance of 10 feet from each other along the walkways that lead into and out of the park (there must be dozens performing at the same time in various areas of the park). Then there are the people selling hand made clothes and crafts, the actors rehearsing monologues and group scenes, the artists drawing and painting, those practicing stage combat (with and without swords), people fencing for fun, and the martial arts area, which includes capoeira, tai chi, and karate. This is not to mention the singing classes, the folk song choruses, the modern dance groups, the tap dancer's corner, the hip hop show I saw a week ago. Additionally, there seems to be about one theme festival per weekend. Yesterday was the Laos festival, featuring a wide variety of food and traditional crafts. I came away from the food stands with an excellent green curry and a smile. Anyway, the energy in Yoyogi Koen is contagious. It makes you want to create something whenever you walk through. The park is filled with picnickers, kids playing, and people just enjoying the entertainment of those nearby. I cannot believe I live next to this park!

The other places I have been include Shibuya, (a Japanese version of Times Square, where everything is oversized, from the tv screens to the Starbucks,) Harajuku, (yes, the teenage fashions are as outrageous as Gwen Stefani claims,) Shimokitazawa, (sort of like the West Village, with a lot of record stores, clubs, and vintage clothing stores,) and Shinjuku, (the Tokyo you see in the movies--absolutely overwhelming with lights and cars and people.) This past week, I attended an Oktoberfest in Hibiya Park, which I will have to post a video of soon. I had never been to an Oktoberfest before, and so I found it funny to see so many people in lederhosen and suspenders singing German songs and yodeling. What made it funnier was the fact that all of these people were Japanese, except for the gigantic head yodeler on stage, who seemed to be imported from German. The funniest part of the evening was when the head yodeler would sing a call and response song with a very repetative chorus that went "blah blah blah something in german / JA! JA! JA!!!!!" repeat ad nauseum. She would sing the german bits, and then poke the mic into the face of excited and incredibly inebriated Japanese businessmen who would hug each other and scream "JA!!! JA!!!! JA!!!!!!" with great gusto. It was amazing. Afterwards, I went out to a bar with Suresh, Akiko, Ravi, and some of Akiko's friends. (These are all friends of Chiyo, who sublets me my apartment.) So far they have all been very nice to me! I ended up talking with Suresh for a long time about American politics and Indian food. (He is a Bollywood filmmaker from a small village in India. As he says, it is the home of the best biriyani. We both agreed that Basmati rice is far superior to Japanese rice, with Thai style rice falling somewhere in between.)

Other noteworthy conversations of the week included one with a kitschy pop art accessory store owner in Shimokita. After I heard WFMU streaming on her computer (and playing a Japanese song, no less--that made rewind reverse cultural diffusion moment even weirder,) I asked her about her favorite bands. It turns out she had been to New York in the 70's and had met William S. Burroughs. She recommended some Japanese folk music for me, although she wasn't very into Japanese music in general. She showed me a mix CD with Eye, King Crimson, Einstrase Neubauten (I can never spell that, sorry), and Pulsallama (a member of which I am sort of friends with from Rock and Roll Camp!) We talked about music and poetry, until I embarrassed myself by thinking that Alan Ginsberg was still alive. Oops. My bad. I ended up with her business card. Who knows, perhaps I will see her again. Her store was noteable for selling innovative Japanese crafts--wearable art made out of computer motherboards (a little green froggie pin! so cute! why didn't anyone think of this before?) and bags that took the sex, drugs, and rock and roll theme to the next level. Anyone want to buy a bag with ACTUAL PILLS or a SYRINGE glued onto it?!!?!? Dear lord!! Why!

I have accumulated 20 Japanese kawaii consumption points by buying a wallet and a change purse that feature little allegators carrying umbrellas, taking baths, and talking with little birds. Both items make me incredibly happy.

Oh yeah, my other good conversations were with people in record stores. Basically, I just go up to them and ask them about their favorite bands. I befriended a man named Masao in his store, with Nina Simone "They call me.....PEACHES!!!!!" (great song) and James Brown playing in the background. When I bought "My Girlfriend was a Punk!" (a compilation of rare early female punk rockers,) I learned that Masao's amazing record store is failing fast. He makes most of his money off of a set of plastic cd storage sleeves he markets for people who don't have a lot of space for the hard cases in their apartments. This seems like a particularly good invention given the size of the average apartment in Tokyo. Maso knows TsuShiMaMiRe, an amazing all girl three piece from Chiba Prefecture. He is going to try to put me in touch with Mari, their singer and guitar player so I can video and interview them! Awesome!

Well, that's it for now. Thanks, loyal readers. I will post some photos and videos on Flickr soon!

more resources

All wrapped in plastic to keep the heat inside during winter where no more then ten Japanese sized people can fit in. The owner serves cheep booze (glass of beer 300yen) from his single square meter booth surrounded by low volume acid jazz. On summer nights there are tables outside and loads of local Japanese… cozy but raw. Open day and night.

Shimo-Kitazawa 2-24 [Map]

For those of us who grew up on oatmeal, eating a bowl of porridge hardly seems sufficient for dinner. But toss on some organic kimchi, grated daikon, raw tuna, and *gasp*, a hot dog that looks like a flower, and you’ve got yourself one grown-up bowl of ojiyan. This Shimo-kitazawa mainstay, although half-hidden just downhill from the quiet west exit, is frequently crowded, with fashionable hipsters and tired musicians drinking a wide array of teas, juices, and interesting natto-covered oatmeal bowls.

There are myriad varieties of toppings for your basic ojiyan concoction, and interesting seasonal ones abound in set-form as well. The homey atmosphere and large windows opening up to the street seem to swell with the rotating art exhibits which cover the exposed concrete all the way back to the couches in back. It’d be hard to remain stressed in an environment like this. The food is light yet filling, and the ambience always makes me feel at home. I’ll be moving in next Wednesday.

Bio Ojiyan Café

http://www.mfs11.com/

Shimo-kitazawa, West Exit.

Exit, turn left, and walk 2 blocks downhill

(Also a branch in Harajuku, but we recommend the relaxation and understatement and unpretension of the Shimokitazawa one.)

A la tarda hem nat a Shimokitazawa, que diumenge vam veure de passada. Ho intentem però no trobem cap barri més underground i bohemi, així que l'hem explorat a fondo. Tant a fondo que unes estudiants japoneses ens han fet una enquesta per preguntar-nos d'on érem, com és que havíem arribat al barri i com el descriuríem (veure foto). Shimokitazawa és dels llocs així off-guia que des d'aquí recomanem més fervorosament. La cultura de la 2a mà fa que entenguis millor com va vestida la gent, que lo rompen. Tot té un aire a Friedrichshain, a Berlín. El govern amenaça amb construir una cacho-autopista que passi pel mig. No a l'autopista!

I al vespre hem tornat a Shibuya, aquest cop per veure més lo que serien el carrer Tallers i Elisabets de les Rambles. Botigues de roba amb gràcia i tonelades de vinil repartits en botigues subterrànies, a peu de carrer o ascensor amunt. A les 19h Tokyo és un hervidero de llums i so. Joer, és que sona música a volum tuning per tot arreu com a la fira. El tema era completar l'apatrullada de Shibuya amb el Love Hotel Hills, uns carrerons foscos dedicats a locals on pagues habitacions per hores per jincar. N'hi ha de temàtics i de lo que vulguis.

Però oju, ha arribat el moment de citar l'inevitable "Lost in Translation": A Tokyo la gent no sap anglès, però com que els japos són molt servicials, lo que fan és acompanyar-te caminant fins on tu preguntaves (de vegades camines 5 minuts amb ells). Doncs avui una noia ens ha acompanyat un tros perquè no trobàvem una taberna i hem creuat mig Shibuya amb ella. Com que no era allà, li hem preguntat a un poli tipus Dr. Slump que no sabia llegir ni el nostre alfabet. En aquell moment passava un noi de Nova York. Un occidental! El tio també ens ha acompanyat un bon rato caminant a un altre carrer, i quan ja desistíem, de cop s'apropa una iaia que ha ens insistit en acompanyar-nos desandant lo andat fins que li hem hagut de dir que si us plau, que prou, que portàvem mitja hora amb gent acompanyant-nos pels puestus. Al final ho hem trobat sols. Era en una 4a planta i a fora el nom escrit només en kanji. Toooooomaaaaa!!!!

Avui hem quedat amb l'Antonio Rebordao, un semi-matemàtic, semi-informàtic que està fent un master becat a la super University of Tokyo, on els ojeadores de la Mitsubishi, Toshiba & co vénen a disputar-se els futurs treballadors. Un tio encantador, que com tots els portuguesos, té un tempo mooolt leeent... Cada conversa deriva en una extrapolació per arreglar el món. Hem quedat a Shimokitazawa, un barri tipo East Village o Friedrichsain, molt grande, de callejear i nar-li fotent a botiguetes petites de segona mà, de discos, cafès, i un ambient do-it-yourself que clar, t'enganxa. Hem jalat a un lloc all-japo no-guiris, sushi fresc, fins a rebentar per menys de 5 euros per cap. Ha vingut amb la seva nòvia japo, Aiko, una 'lady office', la versió femenina dels 'salary men', la penya que curren com uns condemnats amb 3h de transport diari a la feina per només 10 dies de vacances l'any. És comprensible que a falta de temps, la pasta se la gastin en bolsos Louis Vuitton, que aquí es tan famós com Ronaldinho a Barna. Una parella fantàstica.

A la tarda hem passat per la zona d'Aoyama, a través d'Omote-sando, una avinguda amb Ralph Lauren a un costat i Emporio Armani a l'altre, entre d'altres sospitosos habituals, amb un centre comercial de marques per l'estil amb llums làser i música electrònica que et van dient "compra, compra, compra". Les ties van amb MOOOOOLTA minifalda (joder, quanta carn que ensenyen!!!!!!) i minishorts, i l'Antonio ens comentava que inclús existeix la prostitució part-time, per dones normals que volen gastar encara més. I els tios uns pervertits perduts, òbviament. A falta de trauma econòmic, el trauma del país és sexual.

I hem arribat fins a Shibuya, el Times Square de Tokyo, o sigui que no cal dir més, d'aquells llocs que sents que estàs al putu centre del món. Ens hem fotut unes birres per allà i també sopar. Shibuya és el tipic lloc que vindrem cada dos per tres, perquè quedes embobat amb lo merdosament encantador que és aquest infern capitalista en què vivim. No som persones, som clients.

PD: Em comenta la Cris que el post està bé però ha trobat a faltar el concepte "Àsia" (?).